In short
An option is a provisional hold on your dates, not a job, until the client confirms.
Usage decides what a client can do with your pictures, so check the media, territory and period before you confirm.
Your agent usually signs the model release, so talk to your agency before signing anything on set.
In the UK, an agency cannot charge you an upfront fee to find you work.
Image: Cosmos
Every industry has its own language, and modelling has more than most. This guide explains the fashion modeling terms you will hear from bookers, photographers and clients, from options and call sheets to usage and buyouts, in plain English, so you know what you are agreeing to.
The terms are grouped by where you will meet them: getting booked, getting paid, working with an agency and building your book. If you are new, read it alongside our guide to how castings work and our step-by-step guide to nailing your digitals.
These are the words you will hear most in your first weeks, usually from your booker by phone or message.
Casting An appointment where you meet the client and show your book. You may also be asked to try on clothes or walk. Read more on how castings work
Casting brief The client's description of the look, skills or measurements a job needs. Your agency uses it to decide who to put forward
Go-see A meeting to show a potential client your book and yourself in person, often with no specific job attached. The aim is to be remembered for future work. Our go-see guide covers what to expect
Call back A second meeting with the client, so they can narrow down their choices
Self-tape A video audition you record yourself and send to your agent or the client, used when a casting happens online
Option A client's provisional hold on your dates. A first option has priority, and a second option moves up if the first is released. An option is not a job until it is confirmed
Confirmation The client has committed to the booking, and your agency sends you the details
Call sheet The document with the details of the job: times, location and how to arrive. Treat it as instructions, not suggestions, and ask your booker if anything is unclear
Call time The time you must be on location and ready to work, not the time you walk through the door
Camera-ready Arrive with hair and make-up done, needing only touch-ups. It usually means there is no hair and make-up artist on set
Fitting A session before the shoot where the clothes are fitted to you and often altered. It is often included in the day rate
Charge-back If you miss a booking or damage something on set, the client can charge the agency for its losses, and the agency can pass that cost back to you
Money terms are where misunderstandings cost the most, so be clear on these before you accept a job.
Day rate Your fee for a full working day, quoted to the client before the agency's commission comes off
Usage What the client has paid to do with the images: the media, the territory and the period. Models are paid for each medium their pictures appear in, and longer periods, more markets and worldwide use raise the fee
Buyout A payment for an agreed package of uses. It is often negotiated on top of the day rate and sometimes included in it, and extra buyouts can be bought after the job ends
Residuals A further payment when a client uses your image again after the original usage has run out
Model release A legal document giving permission to use the photos from a shoot. It is usually signed by your agent, so speak to your agency before signing any form on set
Commission The agency's share of what you earn, deducted from your fee. General guides put it between 10 and 20%, depending on the market and your contract. Many agencies also bill the client a separate service charge
Advance When your agency pays costs on your behalf, such as test shoots, comp cards or travel, and recovers them from your earnings once you start working
Vague wording such as "campaign usage" can be read differently by each side. Ask your booker exactly what the usage covers before you confirm.
Booker The person at the agency who represents you to clients, suggests models for each job, sets up appointments and passes on the details
Board The group of models a team of bookers looks after, such as women, men or new faces. The word comes from the walls where agencies once displayed comp cards
New faces Models whose books are still being built. They go to castings and tests before moving to the main board
Mother agency The agency that first finds and develops you, then places you with agencies in other markets. It shares the commission with the local agency, so working abroad should not cost you extra commission
Exclusive A contract that ties you to one agency or one client, or stops you working for a competitor for a set time. Check which kind it is before you sign
Freelance model A model who works directly with clients, with no agency
What a UK agency can charge you
In the UK, agencies cannot charge fashion and photographic models upfront fees for finding work, and that includes putting you on a website or in a publication. Any fees must be agreed with you before the agency starts looking for work, and photography offered as an extra paid service comes with a 30-day cooling-off period. You can read how we look after the people we represent on our model management page.
Book Your portfolio: the edit of your best pictures that agencies show clients and you bring to castings
Comp card A printed card with at least two photos, your name, measurements and agency details, left with clients at castings. It is also called a composite or sedcard
Digitals Plain, current snapshots, usually taken at the agency, that show a client how you look today with little or no make-up. Polaroids is the older name for the same thing
Test A shoot where model and photographer work for each other with no fee beyond shared expenses, to build both books. Usage of the pictures is limited
TFP An informal test where you pose in exchange for pictures for your book, common between newer models and photographers
Editorial Photographs that tell a story or idea in a magazine, in print or online
E-commerce Pictures used to sell products directly from a web page
Campaign A series of adverts for the same brand, across print, outdoor, online or TV
Beauty shot A close headshot with clean make-up and simple hair, used for make-up, skincare and jewellery work
When you are ready, you can apply to 22 IMPACT with your digitals and measurements.
FAQ
An option is a client's provisional hold on your dates. A booking, or confirmation, means the client has committed and the job is going ahead.
General guides put it between 10 and 20% of your fee, depending on the market and your contract. If a mother agency places you abroad, it shares the commission with the local agency rather than adding to it.
Nothing in practice. Digitals is the modern name for the plain, natural snapshots that used to be taken on Polaroid cameras.
No. UK rules stop agencies charging fashion and photographic models upfront fees for finding work, including fees to appear on their website.
Send your digitals and measurements through the application form.
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